Month: June 2012

In 2009, Bell & Ross broke the traditional watchmaking technology and launched the first SKULL (skull) BR 01 watch, which is memorable. In the same year, the brand launched a stunning BR01 SKULL BRONZE. The new model pays tribute to the legendary epic of skydivers during World War II. These elite warriors proudly wear a badge with a skull and the following text on their skydiving: Death from Above.
   The 101st and 82nd Airborne Divisions of the United States descended from the sky at dawn on June 6, 1944, and played a key role in landing in Normandy. Since ancient times, the most brave warriors have worn such skeletons to show their bravery, both to make the enemy timid and to dispel doom. Today, skulls still appear on many military equipment, such as uniforms, badges, and airplanes, and the famous Jolly Roger with white skulls as a decorative element has become an amulet or a sign of resistance.
Reproduction of military elements
   In order to faithfully reproduce the spirit of the paratroopers in 1944 and their badges, the BR 01SKULL BRONZE model boldly uses the bezel and screws to form a skull and crossbones logo that is very similar to the previous pirate flag. The ‘ghost’ monochrome dial uses black to symbolize death, and the hour and minute hands incorporate other traditional military elements: daggers and sabers. The outdated look of the bronze case and leather strap further enhances the retro and military style of the watch, and will surely win the attention of individual watch lovers and collectors.
Color of precipitation over the years
   In order to give the new BR 01 SKULL BRONZE a unique look, Bell & Ross chose to use micro-blasted bronze for its case. This alloy of copper (92%) and tin (8%) fully meets watchmaking quality standards, with outstanding durability and a unique color. Bronze was initially a little pink or red gold, and over time, patina appeared on it, showing an unparalleled retro feel.
   BR 01 SKULL BRONZE, bronze CuSn8 case, 46 mm diameter, black faceplate with fluorescent skull, hours and minutes display, BR-CAL.302 self-winding movement, sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating, waterproof 100 Meter, vintage brown calfskin strap ?.
   This retro look comes from the changes in bronze due to the environment (temperature, humidity, friction, etc.). This patina does not affect the solidity and longevity of the material, and it will change according to the climate and seasons. This brings a unique color to BR 01 SKULL BRONZE, making each watch unique. Bronze has been used by humans for thousands of years, but Bell & Ross has brought it into the modern era by adding grade 5 titanium to it. This makes the case back less prone to allergies and is extremely lightweight, making it extremely comfortable to wear.
The ultimate charm of retro futurism
   Through the use of bronze and legendary military elements, BR 01SKULL BRONZE has become a new iconic watch. But this watch is also full of modernity; BR 01’s famous 46 mm square case is equipped with an accurate, sturdy, high-performance automatic winding movement. The screw-locked crown makes the watch water resistant to 100 meters, while the sapphire crystal glass is particularly conspicuous due to the metal-plated solid gold long tapered hour-markers.
   In order to maintain the purity of the design and the balanced aesthetics of the watch’s appearance, the index axis was intentionally positioned in the center of the skull when designing the mechanical device. Like the eccentric crown, this position is unique. To pay homage to the fascinating vintage craftsmanship, the skull in the center of the dial is hand-applied with B-light fluorescent paint, shining in the dark. Finally, the leather distressing effect produced by the special tanning process and the same color stitching give the brown strap a retro look.

The RM 039 E6-B flight calculator flyback chronograph tourbillon watch was unveiled for the first time in 2012, and once again caused a shock. Its complexity and sophistication made the watch professionals amazed! Richard Mille uses flying materials and visual coding for flying to create a great flying tool for pilots.

   RM039 has a manual winding tourbillon movement, hour and minute display, small seconds at 6 o’clock, large date display, flyback chronograph function, central minutes and seconds, hour counter at 9 o’clock, world coordinated time, Countdown function, as well as function selector and power reserve display. In order to present these complex functions on one watch at the same time, 750 new parts have also been developed. This vast project has been concentrated into a machine with a diameter of only 38.95 mm and a thickness of only 7.95 mm. In the core. It is worth noting that this aviation flight watch must be equipped with 6 buttons to be able to operate complex calculations and instructions.

   With about 750 movement parts and 200 case parts, the RM 039 E6-B flight calculator flyback chronograph tourbillon watch is enough to rank among the world’s most precious super-complex watches.

   Because of the extremely complicated technical design of RM 039, Richard Mille insists on a more rigorous and in-depth study to optimize the convenience and service life of its daily use. Therefore, the movement engineer of the Richard Mille watch factory and the watchmaker of APRP have worked hard for months to improve the RM039. The aging resistance of the movement is guaranteed without sacrificing any complex functions and the design of the watch itself Display and function perfectly.

   The parts of the movement are perfectly fitted under the watchmaker’s hands, showing excellent performance, and the assembly method is more comprehensively planned, minimizing the need for adjustments and adjustments. In this way, although the assembly of the movement still requires ingenious and meticulous work, the parts that need to be debugged are relatively reduced. New parts developed in collaboration with watchmakers speed up assembly time and increase the reliability of parts and movements.

   This optimization also improves the adjustment procedures of the stopwatch’s start timing, stop timing, and zeroing. The flyback timing device has more restrictions on assembly and adjustment because of its dual functions. This device with a central minute and second timing function, in addition to the flyback timing function, can also use the minute hand as a countdown hand, however, this design does not allow any slight mechanical errors, otherwise it may damage the entire movement. After optimizing the flyback timing function, the components of the movement are more coordinated and can withstand a wider range of use errors, such as when the wearer presses multiple buttons at the same time, or when using the flyback function while pressing When the countdown function is down, the movement will not be damaged, all of which are due to the greatly improved safety between the parts of the movement. The watch factory has invested a lot of effort in research to ensure the long-term optimal operation of the extremely complex flyback / countdown device.

Summary: The complexity of this watch is personally beyond the scope of personal understanding. It has a tourbillon movement, hour and minute display, chronograph, flyback chronograph function, countdown function, dual time zone, date display, power reserve display, etc. The E6-B calculator built into the two-way rotating bezel can be used to read and calculate fuel consumption, flight time, ground speed, and custom impact, and quickly convert the unit of measurement. (Picture, text / watch home Mao Zhuang Chen Zhong)

Geneva International Haute Horlogerie 2013:

Copyright statement: This article is the exclusive original manuscript of the watch house, the copyright belongs to the watch house. Reproduction and quotation in all forms is prohibited, otherwise legal liability will be investigated.

HUBLOT has always been good at using high-tech innovative materials, constantly breaking the traditional concept, and bringing us new visual enjoyment. From the aspect of the use of new materials, Hublot has always been at the forefront of world watchmaking. position. At the Basel Watch Fair earlier this year, Hublot created the new BigBangMP-11 watch with the 3D three-dimensional carbon fiber technology pioneered by the watchmaking industry. It has a unique shape and is full of strong future dynamics. Let’s take a look at this new watch with unique materials and long-lasting power. (Watch model: 911.QD.0123.RX)

Breaking the tradition to create a 3D future

   3D carbon fiber technology was owned by the U.S. military in the past. This time Hublot applied this technology to the watchmaking industry for the first time, in line with its bold and innovative philosophy. 3D carbon fiber has an extremely lightweight and solid three-dimensional structure. The weight of the entire watch is only 90 grams. The lightweight, wear-resistant, innovative material case, paired with an extraordinary movement, adds mechanical beauty to the watch.

Watch real shot

    Hublot uses the new 3D carbon fiber technology to break the setting of the inherent flat mirror, creating an unprecedented solid carbon fiber case for the watchmaking industry. The black bezel is fastened with six iconic H-shaped screws, highlighting the brand’s exclusive aesthetic style.

    The crown of the watch is presented in a spiral shape of the worm gear, corresponding to its mechanical design, inspired by the electric Torx stylus of the racing car.

    Above the dial is a timetable dial, which can read the time clearly; below is 7 series barrels, which can provide a power reserve of up to two weeks. Through the linear power display also below, the watch’s power storage situation is always available . The dial is designed with a hollowed out process, and the movement of some movements can be seen from the front, showing the beauty of mechanical operation.

   The spiral-shaped rubber strap of the worm gear is consistent with the overall style of the watch, and it is equipped with a black ceramic folding buckle.

   The movement uses the HUB9011 movement. This movement has a number of innovative mechanisms. In addition to the seven mainsprings in series, its power transmission also uses a vertical 90 degree helical gear transmission system, which is rare in the watchmaking industry. The gear system that can smoothly transmit the hours and minutes, and the balance wheel design that is inverted on the side of the dial, also highlights Hublot’s superb watchmaking skills.

Summary: In addition to carbon fiber black models, Hublot also launched sapphire models. The brand has been committed to the development of special materials to achieve mass production, which has brought us one after another. This time, the BIGBANGMP-11 watch introduced the new 3D carbon fiber technology for the first time, which became a milestone in the history of watchmaking. If you are interested in this futuristic watch, you can pay more attention. Limited edition: 200 pieces, Reference price: ¥ 541,400 (Wu Fengqi, House of Pictures / Text Watches)