The Movement Is More Than Eta’s Other Choices In The Watchmaking Industry

How to replace the ETA basic movement? Copy, replace, or produce in-house? Since 2010, the Swatch Group has successively announced plans to gradually stop the supply of third-party movements. Many brands that rely on reliable and affordable ETA products can only accept price increases and supply reductions. Faced with this situation, many brands have turned to alternative suppliers. For example, Sellita, the movement provided by this manufacturer is interchangeable with the movement produced by ETA, and thus occupies most of the share. Despite the crisis in the watchmaking industry, demand still exists, and some higher-end manufacturers such as Soprod and Vaucher have cut prices to meet demand. The performance of these alternative movements is almost the same as that of ETA movements, and the channels are open and applicable.

BVLGARI Octo Roma watch with BVL-191 movement
   At the same time, about 20 brands choose to manufacture independently, gaining greater independence. These brands are developing or commissioning exclusive movements, and are even producing their own movements. However, they all have one major drawback: simplicity. Note that we are not talking about small-volume chronograph movements, tourbillon movements, or feature-complex movements. They are basic movements, usually three hands plus date and automatic / manual change. This type of movement is the backbone of the mechanical watchmaking industry. Mass-produced movements must remain economical so as not to disrupt the final price of the watch; at the same time they must have impeccable reliability, which is a demanding requirement for mass production.

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control watch with Caliber 01.08-C

   Expensive and difficult choices have prompted these brands to take a long-term commitment to the industrial path. Their choice has proven to be decisive, because the Manufacture movement brings fresh diversity to the watchmaking industry and offers more benefits to watch lovers. Such as BVLGARI BVL-191, Montblanc MT5601 (and Tudor modified models), Cartier 1887MC, Chopard Caliber 01.08-C and Athens watch UN-118, these movements adapt to contemporary needs, its main features include: 60-65 hours Power reserve (compared to the previous 45 hours); larger size; speed governing mechanism or made of silicon to improve accuracy, usually certified by COSC. More importantly, these shifts did lead to increased costs, but had very limited impact on final prices. When the price rises sharply, the performance is also significantly improved. For example, the Oris Caliber 110 movement has a power reserve of up to 10 days.

Montblanc Timewalker chronograph MB 25.10 movement from Valfleurier

Baume & Mercier’s BM12-1975A on the Crichton Baumatic watch, from Valfleurier

   A special case that deserves closer study is ValFleurier. This discreet and low-profile movement manufacturing company is part of Richemont Group, supplying parts for IWC, Panerai and Cartier, and has been providing complete and reasonably priced movements in recent years. The company’s products include a column wheel chronograph movement similar to ETA 2824, which is now used in Montblanc TimeWalker watches. At the SIHH 2018 in Geneva, the company took a new step with the Baume & Mercier Britmatic watch. The BM12-1975A self-winding movement on the Critton Baumatic watch is equipped with a dual-core silicon spring and a large calendar window. It has a power reserve of up to 120 hours and is COSC certified. Its price is 25% lower than similar ETA products, which is a strong proof that collaborative industrialization can bring benefits to watch lovers.

Continuation Of The Gorgeous Chapter Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery Watch

Brand Montblanc’s new Lao Xi series ladies watch, a new interpretation of the traditional Swiss fine watchmaking: born for women, and with a unique style, elegant design to add modernity to the traditional watchmaking technology Gorgeous chapter of watchmaking.

 The traditional craftsmanship of Swiss fine watchmaking is presented in a way that is uniquely feminine—the Montblanc Bohème series watches are designed to convey a strong and authentic personality charm to contemporary women who are seeking sophisticated elegance. The complete collection of ladies’ watches shows the design and craftsmanship inherited from Swiss watchmaking, which is rare in the entire Swiss watchmaking industry: In the design philosophy full of artistic beauty, Montblanc’s new Baoxi watches are automatically The complex functions of the winding mechanical movement, calendar and perpetual calendar interpret the perfect fusion of ‘Bao Xi style’ and fine watchmaking.

 The devotion and attention to detail make Montblanc’s new watch series not only possess the connotation of Swiss watchmaking, but also vividly depict the personality charm of contemporary women with elegance and confidence.

 Floral Arabic numerals with perceptual design curves depicting the quietness of time and time, and the machine dial decoration or diamond-inlaid watch dial creates a quiet and luxurious time display background, blue steel or gold-plated The willow-shaped pointer shows the independent personality and elegant taste of contemporary women.

 The round case with a diameter of 30.00 or 36.00 mm is based on simplicity. It is made of stainless steel or 18K rose gold, and the curved lugs with multi-face cutting have shaped the original value of Montblanc’s new watch.

 The elegance of Montblanc’s new Bao Xi series is also reflected in a variety of independent choices such as diamond-set bezels, mother-of-pearl dials, leather or steel straps. Not only that, contemporary glamour women can also pursue a complex function mechanical watch created by Montblanc.

 Montblanc’s new Bohème series watch will create the beauty of independence and maturity for the wearer with a pure feminine design.

Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery Watch

 Based on two watchmaking workshops located in Reno and Viller, Switzerland, Montblanc brings together the traditional craftsmanship and technology of Swiss fine watchmaking. As the flagship of Montblanc’s new Baoxi series watches, the Baoxi series perpetual calendar jewellery watch proves the mature, independent and decisive beauty of contemporary women. Its perpetual calendar function mechanical movement is also used for women’s watches. Take definition to a whole new level. The Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery Watch carries the essence of the brand’s watchmaking technology, and has become a model of traditional watchmaking technology and extreme aesthetic design with exquisite details.

 On the delicately decorated silver machine engraved dial, the Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar jewellery watch has a traditional and clear perpetual calendar function display: the month and leap year displays are at 12 o’clock, the date display is at 3 o’clock, and the moon phase And the day of the week display at 6 and 9 o’clock, respectively. The clear display of complex functions not only demonstrates the design skills of Montblanc’s watchmaking workshops, but also the mechanical movement inside the watch can correctly display various information, including leap years, and only requires a simple and convenient manual adjustment in 2100 school.

 Through the sapphire crystal back of the 18K rose gold case with a diameter of 36.00 mm, the automatic mechanical movement MB29.15 can be seen at a glance. In order to guarantee the highest standards of accuracy and durability of the Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar jewellery watch, each watch needs to be tested for up to 500 hours at Montblanc’s watchmaking workshop in Reno . Beyond the highest standards of intrinsic quality, the bezel set with 60 top Wesselton diamonds and the diamond-encrusted crown created by Montblanc’s patented cutting process all highlight the ultimate aesthetic design of this watch.

Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar Jewellery Watch: A new chapter in contemporary watchmaking that combines traditional watchmaking techniques with the ultimate in aesthetics.

Technical parameters:
Number of products: 112503
Movement: MB29.15
Movement type: automatic mechanical movement
Bearing gems: 25
Power reserve value: about 42 hours
Balance spring: flat
Balance frequency: 28,800 times / hour (4 Hz)
Function display: central hour, minute display, month at 12 o’clock, leap year display, week display at 9 o’clock, moon phase display at 6 o’clock, date display at 3 o’clock

Product features:
Case: 18K (5N) rose gold case, 18K rose gold bezel set with 60 top Wesselton diamonds (about 0.906 carat total)
Surface glass: curved anti-reflective and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass
Bottom of the table: 18K rose gold with built-in sapphire crystal glass
Dimensions: 36.00 mm in diameter, 10.05 mm in thickness
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 meters)
Crown: 18K (5N) rose gold set with a Montblanc patent-cut diamond
Dial: silver machined decorative dial, black Arabic numerals, gold-plated willow-shaped hands and rod-shaped hands
Strap: Black alligator leather strap, 18K (5N) rose gold pin buckle
(Picture / text watch home Xie Xin)