As a traditional manual technology industry, since ancient times, watches are a manifestation of accumulated skills and craftsmanship. Today, our sketches of watches have broken through the original restrictions, added more and more technological elements, a variety of new materials have emerged, and the application of avant-garde industrial design even makes you fail to understand the dial! As a traditional manual technology industry, watches have always been a reflection of the accumulation of skills and craftsmanship since ancient times. Today, our sketches of watches have broken through the original restrictions, added more and more technological elements, a variety of new materials have emerged, and the application of avant-garde industrial design even makes you fail to understand the dial! Under the collision of traditional craftsmanship and avant-garde innovation, the watch has been given a new era of life and an extremely pioneering attitude. Let’s enjoy the most advanced innovative watchmaking spirit in the shortlisted models of the “Best Innovative Watch Award” at the 2012 Geneva Haute Horlogerie Awards.磁 ‘Leading the Wolf into the Room’ Magnetic Levitation
Christophe Claret X-TREM-1
力 This Le Locle watch factory launched the first series of the series-X-TREM-1 watch earlier this year, which kicked off this outstanding watch series in all aspects. This tourbillon watch uses a magnetization system to display the hours and minutes magnetically.
This bet is very bold and even a little crazy. In fact, magnetic fields are the greatest natural enemies of watchmaking machinery. How can magnetic fields be incorporated into the heart of a watch without damaging its mechanism? I believe all watchmakers will raise this question. However, Christophe Claret did it successfully. How did he do it?
The ingenious structure of the watch lies in a system composed of two stainless steel balls, which are separated from each other, and are respectively located in the sapphire crystal glass tube on the left and right sides of the case, which are generated by two miniature magnets pulled by the wires. Its magnetic force supports its operation. The balls are cut out to reduce weight. The two balls seem to float in two glass tubes without any mechanical connection to the movement, which adds to the mystery of the watch. The magnetic field is ingeniously controlled and does not affect its operating mechanisms outside of its mission.
俯瞰 Watch the earth on your wrist
Greubel Forsey GMT Watch
Coperfuss uses a very different way to display the time in the second time zone. This GMT watch uses an unprecedented new three-dimensional space architecture: simulate the earth with a rotating sphere, and realistically display the global time zone. This highly technological and poetic mechanical wonder makes us see the most moving interpretation of the concept of ‘time zone’ in our hands.
This ‘Earth’ is made of titanium alloy and is prominently installed at the eight o’clock position; the ‘South Pole’ is the only place to support it, and it is also the connection point of its rotation axis. By relying on the rotation axis, people can enjoy the most clever Surface manufacturing process. ‘Earth’ rotates counterclockwise, one rotation every 24 hours, and the counterclockwise rotation is exactly the direction in which the earth we are rotating. The 24-hour and day-night scales on the titanium Earth’s equatorial ring show the relative position and time zone differences between each continent.
The movement specially developed for GMT models is equipped with a 25 ° inclined tourbillon that rotates once every 24 seconds. This high-speed rotating, multi-axis tourbillon is one of Cooper’s important patents. In addition to high precision and reliability, its compact size also allows more space for other complex functions on the movement.
‘Reservoir’ stored in the table
HYT H1 Hybrid Liquid Mechanical Watch
漏 The leaky pot or water clock that humans now recognize can be traced back to ancient Egypt. For 3,400 years, humans have dreamed of creating a mechanical watch that resists gravity and displays time in liquid. Now, HYT has made this dream watch. YHYT broke the traditional boundaries, broke through all obstacles, and created a H1 watch by applying two flexible reservoirs at the two ends of the pipe guide with a simple watch construction concept. One reservoir contains fluorescent liquids, while the other reservoir contains transparent viscous liquids. The repulsive forces of the molecules in the two liquids make the two liquids repel each other without mixing.
The two reservoirs are set at 6 o’clock. When one is compressed, the other will expand, and vice versa, forming a liquid to run inside the pipe. As time passes, the volume of the fluorescent liquid displayed in the tube guide increases, and the meeting point of the two liquids is exactly showing the hour position; when the time reaches 6:00, the fluorescent liquid will return to the original Location, within the reservoir. The two reservoirs, such as bellows boxes, are made of high-endurance, flexible electroplated alloys, and their movements are driven by pistons. It is this structure that enables liquids to be used in mechanical watches.
的 The challenge of making this system is to find a closed and waterproof interface in the small space of the watch, which can be connected to the mechanical movement and the liquid system. The two must be installed separately and independently, and at the same time, they must be synchronized. Therefore, the dial is divided into two parts and is fitted from the side of the watch. The entire watch structure requires absolute skill to make it.
Harry Winston Opus 12
The movement of this watch can be conceived as a domino effect. The movement of this watch can be conceived as a domino effect. The center of the dial is an arched flyback minute hand with 5 cents. A beautiful curve is drawn on the upper part of the dial in 5 minutes; there is a small transparent second dial that is ‘floating’ next to it.
The 12 letters of the brand name Harry Winston are evenly distributed on the hour mark circle as scales, and each scale emits a pair of long and short hands ‘command arrows’ toward the center of the dial, which is 5 minutes and short is the hour hand. Every 5 minutes, the long “Ling Arrow” at the corresponding time position quickly flips on its own axis, turning the blue side up and standing still; while the previous “Ling Arrow”, which was still blue in the previous moment, flips to a metallic color surface, and Accompanying this, the central minute hand made an arc in the air to complete a flyback. The hourly change is a wonderful exercise: starting from the blue short-hand scale, each ‘short arrow’ that is hidden under the ‘long arrow’ suddenly completes the 360-degree rotation for the axis. The blue side of the ‘arrow’ briefly appeared on the minute hand and then quickly disappeared. After twelve rounds of clockwise rotation, the gear teeth turned to the thirteenth time mark, and the blue surface of the short hand stopped and moved upward. The stunning scene lasted about 6 seconds.
Laugh at the Stars
MB & F MOONMACHINE Titane
创作 In order to create MOONMACHINE, Stepan rotates the HM3 Frog by 90 degrees, and adds the moon phase function that he produced exclusively and has a highly recognizable personal characteristic moon phase icon. The human face on the moon is actually based on Stepan’s own face. The moon phase can be seen through a corona-shaped window. The mysterious automatic disk is actually made of 22K gold, and you can also see the laser-cut Big Dipper stars. .
HM3 Frog has enough space on the side of the dial to allow watchmakers to sway freely. Therefore, the bird screen was chosen as the creation platform of MOONMACHINE. In addition, the frog-like indicator ball is more reminiscent of the moon colony in science fiction. Building.
A multi-level oscillating weight that simulates the Arctic sky, setting a beautiful background for two rounds of hand-polished moon phase symbols. It not only masks the striking golden oscillating weight of HM3, but also makes the ‘moving’ of the starry sky more realistic and vivid. The stars are made of laser perforation, which deliberately allows light to reflect from the bottom of the movement, and these stars can not be simply arranged randomly. They constitute the seven brightest stars in the Ursa Major and the seven brightest stars in Ursa Of stars, including North Star.
The midnight starry sky of Zhuantuo’s star-studded movement not only gave MOONMACHINE a poetic and artistic expression, but also gave it vitality. This is by no means a metaphor, but the real literal meaning, because its rotation powers the moon phases and movements. MB & F’s iconic Tomahawk is right at the conspicuous position of the central axis between the two moon phase symbols on the pendulum.
Richard Mille sapphire tourbillon two-second chase hand chronograph
RM 056 FELIPE MASSA The sapphire tourbillon two-second chronograph race chronograph is characterized by its entire case: including the bezel, the ring and the case back are cut and polished from a single piece of sapphire. It’s a feat of engineering and a visual feast. In order to make this sapphire structure, it took years of research and testing to ensure that the strength and comfort requirements were met. This is also the first time to use sapphire to achieve such a complicated case design.
Sapphire is an extremely scratch-resistant material and one of the hardest materials known on the planet. It is made of alumina crystals, and its special molecular structure makes it appear transparent. The machining of this type of machine is the biggest challenge for Richard Mille, which makes everything more difficult, because the sapphire is very delicate. Although extremely difficult, sapphire must not allow the slightest error in grinding and cutting.
新 This new movement is not only a simple modification based on the RM008 movement, but also uses design features and combined with further innovations to bring unparalleled performance in terms of timing accuracy and long-term reliability.
Super Gold Armor
Hublot Ferrari Big Bang Magic Gold Watch
At the Baselworld International Watch & Jewellery Show 2012, Hublot officially launched the first watch in cooperation with Ferrari. Its new evolution comes from the iconic design of Big Bang in 2005 and the integration of new materials-the world’s first ‘magic’ gold’.
‘Magic Gold’ is a gold and ceramic composite precious metal jointly developed by Hublot and the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL) in Switzerland. This unique 18K synthetic gold has unprecedented super wear resistance, which effectively solves the problem of scratches and scratches on the metal surface of high-end watches during the process of making, processing and wearing. It is called ‘the world’s hardest Of gold. ‘
For a Ferrari Big Bang wearing super gold armor, only a diamond of 2,000 Vickers hardness can leave a so-called scratch on its surface.